INSTALLATION GUIDE

1. YOU WILL NEED,

1/2 DRILL MOTOR, 1/4 AND 1/2 DRILL BITS ( MAYBE A COUPLE OF EACH)

3/8 OR 1/2 INCH DRIVE SOCKET SET AND END WRENCHES,

ONE 1/2 INCH TRANSFER PUNCH (OPTIONAL)

(8) ½ X 2 AND (8) ½ X 2-1/2 GRADE 8 BOLTS WITH WASHER AND LOCK ING NUTS ( DO NOT USE GRADE 5 BOLTS )

ANGLE IRON (STEP 9)

9 QTS OF TRANSMISSION FLUID (RED)

2. FIND THE CENTER OF THE TRUCK BED AND MARK IT IN THE FRONT, THE MIDDLE AND THE REAR. MARK THE MINUTE MAN ON IT’S CENTER ( 23.5 IS CENTER ).

4. SLIDE THE ELBOW INTO THE BOOM, LINE THE HOLE IN THE BOOM UP WITH THE HOLE IN THE ELBOW AND INSERT(1) ¾ X 6” GRADE 8 BOLT INTO PLACE.

5. SLIDE THE ELBOW AND THE FRAMING ALL THE WAY FORWARD UNTIL THE BACK OF THE ELBOW TOUCH THE TRUCK BED. CENTER THE UNIT UP WITH THE MARKS ON THE TRUCK BED. (the boom must be all the way down in the cradle with the elbow not touching the ground. MAKE SURE YOU ARE ABOUT ¼ TO ½ INCHES AWAY FROM THE TRUCK BED)

6. DRILL A 1/4 HOLE DOWN THRU THE FRAME MOUNTING HOLES INTO THE BED. ( THIS WILL TELL YOU IF THE FRAME MOUNTING HOLE WILL INTERFERE WITH THE BOX SUPPORT RAILS AND WELDED SEAMS . REMEMBER THE MOUNTING BRACKETS UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK MUST BE FLAT AGAINST

YOU MAY NEED TO MOVE THE MINUTE MAN FRAMING FORWARD OR BACK A LITTLE SO EVERY THING WILL LINE UP . REMEMBER YOU NEED TO KEEP THE MINUTE MAN AS FAR FORWARD AS POSSIBLE.

8. IF YOU ARE GOING TO INSTALL A BED LINER, REMOVE THE MINUTE MAN FRAMING AND ELBOW FROM THE TRUCK. INSTALL THE BED LINER IN THE BOX AND DRILL A 1/2 INCH HOLE FROM UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK SO YOU HAVE ALL 8 HOLES IN THE BED LINER. SLIDE THE FRAMING BACK INTO THE BED AND LINE UP THE HOLES IN FRAME (REMOVING THE BOOM MAY MAKE THE FRAMING A LITTLE EASIER TO HANDLE ) WITH THE BED LINER ( PLACE A COUPLE OF BOLTS DOWN THRU THE FRAMING INTO BOX LINER AND TRUCK BED TO HOLD THE FRAME IN PLACE ) AND WITH CHALK OR A PAINT MARKER TRACE A LINE OF THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRAMING ONTO THE BED LINER. REMOVE THE FRAMING AND THEN CUT THE BED LINER USING A SABRE SAW OR JIG SAW AND CUT ON THE LINE ( A BED LINER DOES TWO THINGS FOR YOU, IT’S CLEANER AND MUCH QUIETER OUT IN THE FIELD ).

9. THIS IS THE HARD PART. LETS GO UNDER THE TRUCK. DEPENDING ON YOUR TRUCK, THESE ARE THE MEASUREMENTS FOR THE ANGLE IRON YOU WILL NEED. (mounting brackets not included)

FORD: (WITHOUT FACTORY OVERLOAD BRACKETS)

REAR BRACKETS 5” (top) x 6”(side) x 10” (length) x 1/2” (thickness)

FRONT 4” (wide flat stock bent to size) x 5” (top) x 10” (long) x 1/2”

REAR BRACKETS (SAME AS FORD)

FRONT BRACKETS 4” (WFSBS) x 5” (top) x 13” (long) x 1/2”

(please call and we will explain the front bracket)

2000-01 (SAME AS FORD)

OLDER (SAME A CHEVY WITHOUT SHIM)

SHORT BOX (PLEASE CALL)

MOUNTING BRACKET AND HOLD IT UP AGAINST THE FRAME RAIL WHERE THE HOLE COMES DOWN THRU THE TRUCK BED, AND MARK WHERE THE HOLE WILL GO THRU THE TRUCK FRAME RAILS ( BE SURE WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR MARK ON THE DOWN PART OF THE MOUNTING BRACKET AGAINST THE FRAME RAIL THAT THE GAS LINES AND WIRING WILL NOT BE IN YOUR WAY, YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE GET AWAY FROM THE WIRES AND GAS LINES SO PULL THEM BACK AS FAR AS YOU CAN WHEN WE BEGIN TO DRILL THRU THE FRAME RAILS AND PROTECT THEM WITH SOMETHING HARD SO YOU DO NOT DRILL INTO THEM ). DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THE MOUNTING HOLES FOR THE MINUTE MAN FRAME THAT COMES DOWN FROM ABOVE INTO THE MOUNTING BRACKET. MARK ALL FOUR BRACKETS, YOU MAY NEED TO MODIFY THE BRACKETS A LITTLE, REMEMBER WE DON’T WANT TO CRUSH ANY WELDED SEAMS OR ANY SUPPORTS. WE WANT TO CREATE A SANDWICH EFFECT. THE MOUNTING BRACKETS, THE TRUCK BED AND THE MINUTE MAN FRAMING ARE ALL PULLED TOGETHER BY BOLTS. (HOPEFULLY YOU WILL KNOW SOMEONE WITH A DRILL PRESS WHO CAN DRILL THE BRACKETS OUT FOR YOU AND MAKE ANY CUTS YOU MAY NEED )

10. NOW THAT YOU HAVE YOUR HOLES DRILLED IN YOUR MOUNTING BRACKETS AND HAVE MODIFIED THEM TO FIT FLAT AGAINST THE UNDERNEATH OF THE TRUCK BED, TAKE ONE BRACKET AND ONE CLAMP AND GO UNDER THE TRUCK. CLAMP THE BRACKET TO THE FRAME RAIL, KEEP THE MINUTE MAN MOUNTING HOLES THAT COMES THRU THE TRUCK BED AS CLOSE TO THE CENTER OF THE MOUNTING BRACKET AS POSSIBLE. WITH THE MOUNTING BRACKET CLAMPED IN PLACE, TAKE A TRANSFER PUNCH AND MAKE A MARK WHERE YOU WILL DRILL THE FRAME RAIL AT, ( IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A CENTER PUNCH TAKE YOUR 1/2 INCH DRILL BIT AND DRILL A MARK SO YOU WILL BE ABLE TO DRILL YOUR PILOT HOLE IN THE CENTER) THEN TAKE YOUR 1/4 INCH DRILL BIT, AND DRILL YOUR PILOT HOLE IN EACH SPOT ON THE FRAME RAIL AND THEN DRILL ALL THE 1/2 INCH HOLES AFTER THAT.

(BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL INTO ANY WIRES OR GAS LINES ). THE REAR BRACKET ARE EASY. YOU ONLY HAVE TO DRILL THE HOLES IN THE BRACKET. IF YOU LOOK AT THE REAR OF THE FRAME RAIL JUST AHEAD OF THE SPRING SHACKLE THERE ARE A COMBINATION OF HOLE WHERE THE OVER LOAD SPRING SUPPORTS WOULD BE FROM THE FACTORY (IF YOUR TRUCK HAS OVERLOAD SPRING SUPPORTS, USE THESE HOLES , REMOVE THE OVERLOAD SPRING SUPPORT AND PLACE YOUR FRAME BRACKET AND MARK YOUR HOLES ONCE DRILLED PLACE THE BRACKET AND THE OVERLOAD SPRING SUPPORT ON THE FRAME RAIL AND BOLT TOGETHER) FORD HAS 4-3/8 HOLES AND CHEVY HAS 4-1/2 INCH HOLES, DODGE HAS 3 AND 4 HOLES DEPENDING ON THE YEAR.

TAKE YOUR (8) 1/2X2 INCH GRADE 8 BOLTS AND ATTACH ALL THE MOUNTING BRACKETS TO THE FRAME RAIL. MAKE SURE YOU USE LOCKING NUTS WITH ALL THE BOLTS, AND IMPACT TIGHTEN ONLY. (WE RECOMMEND IMPACT TIGHTENING BECAUSE OF THE FT. LB. AN IMPACT AND AIR COMPRESSOR CAN DELIVER )

12. WITH YOUR BRACKETS IN PLACE LETS GO TO INSIDE OF THE TRUCK BED. TAKE YOUR DRILL MOTOR AND 1/2 INCH DRILL BIT AND START DRILLING ALL 8 HOLES INTO THE MOUNTING BRACKET THRU THE TRUCK BED.( DON’T FORGET YOUR PILOT HOLE FIRST)

13. SLIDE THE MINUTE MAN FRAME BACK INTO THE TRUCK AND LINE UP THE HOLES, INSERT YOUR (8) 1/2X2-1/2 INCH GRADE 8 BOLTS WITH WASHERS ON THE FRAMING SIDE AND LOCK WASHERS ON THE BRACKET SIDE WITH LOCKING NUTS AND IMPACT TIGHTEN IN A CRISS CROSS ACTION. ( DO NOT TIGHTEN UNTIL YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS AND NUTS IN PLACE, THEN GO BACK AROUND AND TIGHTEN)

17. LOCATE THE HOSES AND HYDRAULIC FITTINGS. FISH THE 1/4 HOSES DOWN THE ELBOW FIRST. ( YOU WILL NEED TO TWIST THE HOSES TO MAKE THE BEND IN THE ELBOW, OR RUN A FISH LINE AND TAPE THE HOSES TO THE FISH LINE AND PULL THEM DOWN, REMEMBER TO STAGGER THE HOSE ENDS.) THE 90 DEGREE FITTINGS ON THE 1/4 INCH HOSES GO TOWARDS THE CAB OF THE TRUCK, THE HOSES WILL COME FROM THE FACTORY ALREADY INSTALLED ON THE PUMPS AND VALVE BODY. IF YOU REMOVE THEM PLEASE REPLACE THEM WHERE THEY WERE FROM THE FACTORY. ( MAKE SURE THE ENDS OF THE HOSES ARE COVERED WITH SOMETHING, WE DON’T WANT ANY DIRT OR METAL SHAVINGS IN THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. ELECTRICAL TAPE WORKS FINE).

19. LETS CONNECT THE HOSES AND FITTING TO THE LIFTING PUMP. LOCATE (1) 3/8 STREET ELBOW AND (1) 3/8 NIPPLE ( PLEASE USE PIPE DOPE OR SILICON TAPE. SILICON TAPE MAY DAMAGE YOUR HYDRAULIC PUMPS. IF YOU MUST USE TAPE START WRAPPING ABOUT 2 THREADS BACK) INSERT (1) 3/8 NIPPLE INTO THE 3/8 PORT ON THE TOP OF THE SINGLE ACTION PUMP ( TIGHTEN THE NIPPLE AS FAR AS YOU CAN ) SCREW (1) 3/8 NIPPLE AND ATTACH THE FLOW CONTROL VALVE TO THE NIPPLE (ALREADY INSTALLED) ( THE ARROW ON THE CONTROL VALVE HAS TO POINT TOWARDS THE PUMP. THIS CONTROLS THE FLOW AND PRESSURE WHEN YOU HAVE A LOAD ON THE LIFT) ONCE YOU HAVE THE FLOW CONTROL VALVE TIGHT MOVE THE FLOW CONTROL VALVE AND TOWARD THE CYLINDER PORT( SIMPLY POINT THE VALVE AT THE PORT ON THE CYLINDER SO THE HOSE WILL LINE UP BETTER). REMOVE THE PORT PLUG FROM THE LIFT CYLINDER AND INSERT (1) 1/2 INCH STREET 90, THEN TAKE THE 3/8 INCH HOSE WITH SWIVEL ENDS AND ATTACH TO THE LIFT CYLINDER AND TO THE FLOW CONTROL VALVE.

20. FILL THE SINGLE ACTION PUMP WITH FLUID, AND INSTALL YOUR HAND CONTROLLER AND CABLES ( YOU MAY WISH TO JUMP THE PUMP WITH JUMPER CABLES JUST SO YOU CAN PROCEED AND WIRE THE MINUTE MAN LATER WHEN YOU MAY NOT HAVE ANY HELP), YOU MAY NEED TO RAISE AND LOWER THE BOOM TO INSTALL THE BOOT.

21. THE BOOT: SLIDE THE BOOT FROM THE BACK SIDE OF THE ELBOW AND LINE UP THE HOLES THAT BEST FIT YOUR TRUCK. ( IF YOU HAVE NOT INSTALLED 3 EXTRA LEAF SPRINGS OR AIR BAGS OR ANY PRODUCT EQUAL TO THE EFFECT OF THREE LEAF SPRINGS YOU NEED TO DO SO BEFORE YOU USE YOUR LIFT. ALSO REALIZE THAT A COUNTER WEIGHT IS NEEDED OF 400LBS THIS CAN BE A WEIGHTED BUMPER OR ANYTHING EQUAL TO THIS WEIGHT CONNECTED UNDER THE TRUCK AS FAR FORWARD AS POSSIBLE. WE PRODUCE A LEAD WEIGHT WHICH BOLTS TO THE FRAME UNDER THE RADIATOR. CALL YOUR DISTRIBUTOR FOR PRICING). THE MOUNTING HOLES ON THE BOOT ARE SET ONE INCH APART AND OFF SET. USE THE (4) 7/8 X 2.5 GRADE 8 BOLTS AND LOCK WASHERS AND IMPACT THE BOLTS TIGHT.

22. THE EXTENSION, RAM, RAM CYLINDER AND HEAD ARE ALL READY ASSEMBLED. INSERT THE EXTENSION INTO THE BOOT AND INSERT THE BOOT SPRING THE 1X8 INCH GRADE 8 BOLT AND TIGHTEN ONE NYLON LOCKING NUT. (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, WE WANT THE EXTENSION TO MOVE FREELY UP AND DOWN) PULL THE RAM CYLINDER BACK AND INSERT ONE 1X8 INCH GRADE 8 BOLT AND ONE NYLON LOCKING NUT, THRU THE BOOT (YOU MAY WANT TO CUT OFF ANY EXCESS BOLT AFTER YOU ARE SURE THE BOLT IS TIGHTENED JUST RIGHT).

24. CONNECT THE OTHER ¼ HOSES TO THE BULK HOSES THROUGH THE 12“ SPRING, EACH HOSE MUST LAY ON THE SIDES OF THE RAM CYLINDER, ( THESE HOSES ARE ON A 12” SPRING BLOCK AT THE BASE OF THE BOOM, THIS IS HOW WE PULL THE HOSES BACK WHEN THE RAM IS IN A RELAXED POSTION).

25. YOU HAVE TWO HOSES LEFT. YOU WILL NOTICE THAT ONE HOSE IS MARKED WITH RED PAINT THIS HOSE GOES ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE HEAD (THE LEFT IS IF YOU WHERE SITTING ON THE BACK OF THE TRUCK LOOKING OUT AT THE HEAD) THE HOSES ARE IN TWO PARTS REMEMBER TO REPLACE THE NYLON ROLLER. PULL THE CYLINDER UP OUT OF THE WAY SO YOU CAN INSTALL THE HOSES WITHOUT ANYTHING BEING IN THE WAY

26. FILL THE SINGLE ACTION PUMP THIS IS THE ONE THAT GOES TO THE VALVE BODY (DO NOT OVER FILL THE TANK , ABOUT ONE INCH FROM THE TOP IS ABOUT RIGHT)

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